Blog Archive

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Final Leg, Final Post, Bird List- Ah, Home!


Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Sixty-two days after leaving Olympia, we hook up the trailer one last time for the last leg of the trip home. Gray, but not cold, we packed up and drove to the visitor's center at Champoeg State Park to say goodbye to Carol and Woody Wood. We had a great visit with them after the volunteer's potluck at the camp pavilion the night before. We talked until almost dark, which thanks to DST stretched the day for us. They will be heading our way in May, so we look forward to seeing them again.

Sadly, we did not get to visit with our friends Vern and Betty near Portland. It did not seem wise to share our bug (or whatever) with them. Duffy and I hope to plan another trip down the coast during the summer and touch base with them then.

From the park, we drove back-roads to Wilsonville, OR to have breakfast at Biscuits Cafe and pick up a few groceries at the new Fred Meyer there (it looks like an upscale Ralph's in Olympia, plus the non-food departments). Now, I have heard from one reader that it seems from my blog that every morning I ate yogurt and granola for breakfast on this trip. I think when I wrote that I was eating those two items for breakfast each day, we were on the road, getting up early and getting going without spending too much time dawdling. (I'm not sure I like that word, it suggests I am always dawdling. I don't think so. Just puttering, getting little things done. :) ) As for breakfast, when we ate breakfast “in” I ate oatmeal and a banana, or a breakfast bar and a banana, or yogurt with granola and a banana, or cereal and soy milk and a banana. No, I did not eat a banana every morning. When we ate out every so often, I usually ordered eggs, either scrambled or an omelet, hash browns, bacon and or fruit. Now you all know – there is variety to my meals.

Duffy drove us to Wilsonville where I took over the driving. Duffy's cold, picked up from yours truly and gaining momentum, had him feeling like he would rather ride than drive, so I took over the wheel and drove us home, a three-hour trip from Wilsonville. During the trip north from San Diego we have been listening to a book-on-CD that is longer than the number of miles left to drive. I cued it up and we listened to the story for the remainder of the trip home. But, now we need to come up with another short trip that is just long enough for us to finish the book. Oh drat – I hate it when the trip ends before the book!

Our strategy for pushing on home today was timed to see Maya before she flies to Washington D.C. with her class at school. Yea, we succeeded, even getting home before the grand-kids arrived home from school. Oh, those hugs! It is so wonderful to love and be loved. And, there is nothing sweeter than hugs from grandchildren. Not to mention hugs from son and daughter-in-law as well. A warm welcome with eight multicolored, latex, helium-filled balloons!

We are home. I am writing this on the evening after our arrival. I spent the day sleeping in – a long, long time - doing laundry, cleaning out the trailer and putting things away. The usual. Duffy and I agree. We will have to look at the photos to recall all that has happened in the last two months, everywhere we've been, what we've seen. What a great trip. Is it too soon to plan next year's journey?

Until next year,
Pam

Following: Birds we have seen, new birds on our life list (*) in chronological order, in brackets – non-bird [_]; Top to Bottom, Left to Right. 50 New Birds Added to Life List.

Collard Dove
Blue Jay
Northern Mockingbird
Crested Cormorants
Ruby-Crowned Kinglet
Osprey
Great Egret
Eastern Bluebird*
Northern Flicker
Cardinal
Red-Winged Blackbird
Boat-Tailed Grackle
Brown Pelican
Willet
Lesser Yellowlegs*
Wilson's Snipe
Laughing Gull
Blue-Winged Teal
Caspian Tern
Black Vulture
White-Tailed Kite
White Pelican
Turkey Vulture
Barn Swallow
Northern Shoveler
Killdeer
Gadwall
[Alligator]
Northern Harrier
Snowy Egret
Laughing Gull*
Long-Billed Curlew
Roseate Spoonbill*
Great Blue Heron
Belted Kingfisher
White Ibis*
Greater Yellowlegs*
Glossy Ibis*
Fulvous Whistling Duck*
Tri-Colored Heron*
Forster's Tern*
Neo-Tropic Cormorant*
Black-Bellied Whistling Duck*
Reddish Egret*
Pied-Billed Grebe
Redheaded Duck*
Loggerhead Shrike
Savannah Sparrow*
Chipping Sparrow
White-Crowned Sparrow
Eastern Meadowlark*
Tree Swallow*
Mottled Duck*
Ring-Billed Gull
Shrike
Kestrel
Rock Pigeon
Black Skimmer*
Snowy Plover*
Sanderling*
Scissor-Tailed Flycatcher*
[Alligators]
[White-Tailed Deer]
Mourning Dove
Red-Bellied Woodpecker*
Short-Billed Dowitcher*
American Golden Plover*
Swainson's Hawk*
Pyrrhuloxia
Whooping Crane*
[Lizards]
[Racoon]
American Avocet
Black-Necked stilt
Marbled Godwit
Long-Billed Dowitcher*
Barn Swallow
Western Meadowlark
Semi-Palmated Sandpiper*
American Coot
White-Winged Dove
Lesser Scaup
Black-Chinned Hummingbird*
House Sparrow
Phainopepla
Common Yellowthroat*
House Finch
Turkey
Gambel's Quail
Broad-Tailed Hummingbird
Green-Tailed Towhee
Curve-Billed Thrasher
Yellow-Headed Blackbird
Gila Woodpeckers
Gray Hawk*
Yellow Warbler*
Vermillion Flycatcher
Black-Headed Gnatcatcher*
Lesser Goldfinch
Merlin*
Magnificent Hummingbird*
Rufous Hummingbird
Anna's Hummingbird
Broad-Tailed Hummingbird
Black Phoebe
Audubon Warbler
Painted Redstart
Acorn Woodpecker
White Nuthatch
Violet-Crowned
Hummingbird*
Audubon's Warbler
Lazuli Bunting*
Bridled Titmouse
Ladderback Woodpecker
Abert's Towhee
Black-Headed Grosbeak*
White-breasted Nuthatch*
Say's Phoebe
Roadrunner
Lucy's Warbler
[Jackrabbit]
Hepatic Tanager*
Mexican Jay
Dark-Eyed Junco –
Gray-Headed Race
Robin
Yellow-Rumped Warbler
Wood Duck
Mallard
Western Gull
Black Oystercatcher*
Fulmar*
Sooty Shearwater*
Petrel*
California Thrasher*
California Quail
Yellow-Billed Magpie*
Oak Titmouse*
California Towhee*
Costa's Hummingbird
Yellow-Crowned Sparrow*
Scrub Jay



Monday, April 23, 2012

Last Night On The Road


Saturday through Monday, April 20-22, 2012

Saturday morning broke sunny and nearly 80-degrees before noon. A beautiful, yet hot day in Paradise. We arrived at Debbie's home after 8:00pm the night before, and today would be a day of rest. Duffy and Debbie went off to the plant sale with a friend of Deb's, while I stayed behind. The cough and congested head I have traveled with all week has proven relentless. While not feeling particularly sick, both coughing and blowing had worn me out. On Duff and Deb's return, we ate lunch, and all three of us elected to nap rather than go to New Clairvaux Abbey. I relished having a quiet, non-travel day, doing very little but sitting on Deb's patio watching birds flit in and out of her very lovely, peaceful backyard.

On Sunday, Deb went to her church early to sing with the choir at the early service. Meanwhile, Duffy and I gathered our belongings, ate and cleaned up after breakfast, and left Paradise shortly before Deb was due home. Our original intention to spend the entire weekend with Duffy's sister changed when we learned that our granddaughter, Maya, is due to leave in the wee hours of Tuesday morning for Washington D.C. with her class at school. We want to be home to see her before she leaves for nearly a week.

We drove to Canyonville, Oregon hoping to touch base with friends Frank and Jeannie Moore near Roseburg the following morning. Unlike previous years stopping over at Canyonville and the Seven Feathers Resort and Casino, we checked in to the RV Park. In previous years, we have camped in the dry lot, where RVs and Tractor-Trailer rigs can spend the night for free. There are no utilities, no running water. The facilities, however, are wonderful – among the best and cleanest of any we've encountered. This time we needed the hook-ups in the park, and to our delight, they offered a Good Sam discount PLUS a Player's Club Card discount. This park is outstanding in its design and upkeep. The fee for one night with the two discounts was $31.49. Amazing! Additionally, all of the people, staff and volunteers, are friendly, helpful, and polite. We suspect the training for all people who represent the resort, and thus the tribe (Cow Creek Tribe of Umpqua Indians), is thorough and required. Full customer service with a genuine smile.

Dinner in the Casino Restaurant and breakfast in the Creekside Restaurant across I-5 at the truck stop met all our expectations. That mean they exceeded expectations and met what we have come to expect. The casino was not unfriendly to us either, though not overly generous. We walked away from the penny slots with $5.10 more than we played. (The one other time we played pennies at a casino was in Tucson, where we netted $16.20. We were feeling like lottery winners!

This morning, Monday, we slept in, then Duffy spent a couple of hours doing bookwork on the laptop, while I slept in a little longer then showered and straightened up the inside of the Casita. We pulled out at noon and stopped about an eighth of a mile away at the truck stop for the breakfast at the Creekside. The balance of the day has been spent driving north to Champoeg, (we are almost there at this writing), and our last night in the Casita. We have amazed even ourselves by spending every night in our Baby Beluga since picking it up on February 29th. Tonight we will see Carol and Woody Wood, and enjoy swapping travel stories. Tomorrow we will head home with a stop in Aloha, OR to share trailer adventures with Vern and Betty Groves, who have a Scamp that they tow with a smaller vehicle than our own.

Our trip is nearing an end and we are looking forward to home. We have thoroughly enjoyed our travels and will need to re-read this blog, review our photos (some of which I would have included here if I had been able to do so easily and quickly), and check our expenditure log for details on where we've been on particular days. Since we have been gone from home, we have watched no TV, gone to no movies or plays, hung out at no night clubs, unless the streets of New Orleans count, attended no fairs or expositions. We have read no newspapers, listened to no news reports other than those translated to us by friends and family, then researched on the web (tornadoes and severe storms).

Since leaving home, we did visit many National wildlife refuges, national seashores and state parks, briefly held low-key tournaments at two casinos (those of you who know how we play, know that we risk very little on gambling, such as it is, and have a method to our
play), watched diminishing sunsets, went whale watching on a calm sea under blue skies, and spent time with family and friends laughing and talking, catching up. We cannot think of many happier times. And, the birds – oh, the birds we've seen. I do not know how many “new” birds we have added to our life list, but I will make a count and add the report to this blog.

Well, we've arrived at Champoeg State Park near Salem, Oregon. It's time to wrap up this posting for now.

Until next time,
Pam

Friday, April 20, 2012

Mt. Diablo serenity, Good Friends and Family


Friday, April 20, 2012

In my last posting, did I say we arrived at the top of the mountain and made our camp last night? Things look much different by light of day. What a view! Green rolling hills. Busy communities linked by freeways that looked like spaghetti from high on the hill. In the background, behind yet more hills lay San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge, the orange towers visible from our vantage point. We took photos. It was already eighty degrees in the early morning, which means there is always a haze over the valley below. On crisp, clear mornings, the view is much more distinct we are told by the locals. When we finally tore ourselves away from the view, we discovered another 1,000 feet to the summit of Mt. Diablo with even more stunning views. Our drive down the mountain first had us winding upward the last one quarter of the mountain's height. Our campsite, it turned out, was only three-quarters of the way to the top!  

I was forced to call my cousin and beg off stopping by to visit because of my cold. Les is 90-years-old, his wife Bonnie several years younger, and her mother, with them, a bit older than Les. It was unwise and imprudent, besides unthinkable, to share my germs with the three of them. Les and I were sorely disappointed to cancel our visit. I last saw him at my aunt Bonnie's in El Cajon five or six years ago, give or take one or two, and before Duffy and I saw him in the early years of our marriage as we passed through San Francisco. We have kept in touch over the years, more since my father's death as I, along with Skip, inherited some property in Oklahoma near acreage both Aunt Bonnie and cousin Les had also inherited through the Krames family – property bought in the early part of the 20th century by our mutual grand- and great-grandfather. I hope we can make the connection we missed today in the next year or so. [The Oklahoma property is located in Woodward, site of devastating and deadly tornadoes this past weekend, April 14 and 15, 2012.]

Coming down off of Mt. Diablo we passed many cyclists stretching their bodies' limits with the trip up the 4,000 feet to the top from the State Park entrance gate below, followed by an exhilarating ride back down. We did not burn the calories these athletes did, but we ate as though we had. The Waffle House in Clayton at the base of the north entrance to Mt. Diablo State Park made a delicious omelet served with hash browns and biscuits.

What a joy to see Winona and Bill again, and later Sydne when she returned home from her college classes. We stayed, caught up, and were short of exhausting our conversation when over two hours had passed and it was time to head up the road to Paradise to see Duffy's sister for the weekend. That's where we are now. On the road to Paradise at 8:30pm, where the temperature is still in the upper 70s.

Tomorrow, we are off to a plant sale with Deb, followed by a trip o New Clairvaux Winery, a Trappist monastery just north of Chico in Vina, California. They make the best Tempranillo wine we've tasted anywhere. The Cistercian Trappist monks of the winery are rebuilding a Chapter House purchased, dismantled and moved from Spain by William Randolph Hearst in 1931.  The 12th century Sacred Stones lay scattered around San Francisco's Golden Gate Park until the Fine Arts Museum in that city awarded them to the Abbey of New Clairvaux in its present location in the small town of Vina, California. An interesting piece of history.  Read more at www.newclairvaux.org and www.sacredstones.org.

Until next time...
Pam

Sunshine, Family, Rain Showers, and Whales


Monday April 9 - Thursday, April 19, 2012

The balance of the week after Easter included visits with my Aunt Bonnie, cousin Dee and her husband Trevor at my brother's for dinner, a trip to PetCo Park for a one-run win late in the game by the San Diego Padres against the Arizona Diamondbacks, and too much time dealing with unauthorized withdrawals from one of my bank accounts. The fraud took time every day for a week dealing with the various agencies and online paperwork, including notaries. Not my idea of a vacation.

By Thursday, my brother's birthday and Friday, I was still dealing with the fraud/identity theft (only a minor and perhaps accidental incursion on my funds and ID) while taking breaks to visit with friends. When I was not using the laptop, Duffy was busy with business bookkeeping, and taking bike rides around the campground and from Santee to El Cajon.

On Friday, April 13, Duffy and I spent three wonderful hours visiting with our friend Tina (nee Christina Shriver). [I fear we wore you out, Tina, and I hope I did not give you the cold that began expressing itself the following Saturday morning.] I ask anyone keeping up with our journey via this blog to keep Tina in your prayers. She is still undiagnosed, as some of the scariest possibilities have been ruled out and resulted negative in tests. [Tina, we love you like family. We are waiting for the jubilant report and healing of your body that you long for. Hugs, friend.]

Friday evening we joined Skip and Susan and friends Tom and Cathy at their weekly hangout for dinner, and Mike and Mona who joined us all at Por Favor Mexican Restaurant in El Cajon. It is always good to see these old and dear friends, and to catch up on what's been going on over the past year. As usual, we eat way too much.

On Saturday, I lay low, because of the cold I was catching. I blame it on the change in weather from sunny, warm days to a low pressure system with gray skies and one-half-inch of rain on Saturday. Or to all the pollen and syrupy scents saturating the air. More than an inch of rain is a lot of precipitation all at once in San Diego. My response was to ply myself with every remedy I had at hand. I won't go into details, except to say the regimen added a bit of time onto my normal daily routine. Now, many of you know Duffy spends a good deal of time waiting for me. I try, I really do. So, during this time whenever I was ready on time, it was noteworthy. I hope Duffy made mental or calendar notes of my victories.

On Sunday, the family celebrated my brother's 68th birthday and our niece's seventh birthday, which fall just six days apart. It was fun to be part of the family on this occasion; however, being with Reagan for her birthday party caused me to miss even more not being present for Ahna's birthday party in March. It won't be long now, Ahna, and we will be home to give you that big birthday, bear hug. Love you, Sweet Pea.

Monday brought with it clearing skies – a promise of a brighter tomorrow for the pre-scheduled whale watch on Tuesday with Skip and Susan. Duffy spent some time with friend Mike while I had lunch out with Skip and Susan, and our Aunt Bonnie, our mother's sister. I look forward to the little bit of time I get to spend with Bonnie. As my favorite aunt, and the one I grew up sharing special occasions and making memories with, she is always on my list of must-see people when in San Diego area.

Tuesday morning broke sunny and warm. Did we feel lucky?! The whale watch, on a sport fishing boat called the Eclipse which takes sports fisher-men and -women out for Tuna from San Diego Bay during the summer months, started out not looking too promising. Fog covered the bay and the ocean for most of the morning, and we saw little but harbor seals and sea lions, and many fast-moving sea birds that we could not name. The trip lasted eight hours, and by day's end, we had seen these mammals, birds, and more on the Mexican Los Coronados Islands about 15-miles south of San Diego.

On these rocky outcroppings, we saw nesting Cormorants and Brown Pelicans, Fulmars, Shearwaters, and a bird we had looked for all across the gulf coast – the Black Oystercatcher. Wow! Finally! Another new bird for our life list! These birds are bigger than we thought they would be, with a very long and sturdy, bright, nearly fluorescent, orange-colored bill used for breaking open oyster shells. Such gratification!

We knew we were a bit late for the Gray Whale migration from Mexican lagoons where the females spawn their young before making the long trip to the cold Alaskan waters where they summer. Early in the trip we saw a lone Minke Whale, a smaller species, again one we had not seen before, Offshore Bottle-Nosed Dolphins playing in the boat's wake, and the smaller Common Bottle-Nosed Dolphins playing in and out of the displaced water at the bow of the boat. By late afternoon, almost ready to admit defeat when it came to seeing whales, our onboard naturalist saw three Fin Whales, a species I had not heard of, and one neither Duffy nor I expected to see nor had seen before. These whales are the second largest whale in the oceans next to the Blue Whale. According to Wikipedia, the North Pacific populations of these giants are undocumented. They are larger than the Grays by twenty-three to thirty-three feet, so somewhere around 75 to 85 feet long. Fins weigh between 70 and 80 tons, live 80-90 years, and have been called “The Greyhound of the Sea,” moving swiftly in the ocean and often outrunning steamships. What we saw skimming the water was actually only about one-half of the length of the entire whale. We followed the three for a while until it was time to head back to port. It was a beautiful day on the water with calm to moderate seas, no sea-sickness, plenty of blue skies and sunshine. Great fun!

Wednesday, April 18 found us leaving San Diego, heading north on Hwy 101. Again, the weather was beautiful, warm and clear. Our plan was to reach Lompoc by nightfall to stay at the campground where, with our grandchildren in 2010 we saw and heard a family of Great Horned Owls atop the light standards in the camping area and in the trees. However, due to the fact that I slept in a bit later than perhaps I should have, still fighting the head cold and chest congestion, we left San Diego well after twelve noon. We drove along Highways 101 and 1 as far as Carpinteria State Beach, a pretty coastal beach park and campground. As most of these California beach parks go, there were no hook-ups, but there were warm showers (remember your quarters). We wondered, other than the ocean proximity, why the camp fee was high when there were few amenities. We must have paid for the ocean view, hidden behind a sand dune between the campground and the beach.

Did I mention that our National Geographic Birds of North America, our second since the first volume fell into the Stanislaus River in 2010? (The original still exists, a bit warped from its dunking while Duffy was maneuvering his way in the water with a bad knee and the two oldest grandchildren were riding boogie boards from point to point down the slow river.) The replacement volume disappeared after visiting Madera Canyon south of Tucson on April 5th this trip. For days since losing our bird bible this month, we have used the addition our friend Gene gave to us a few years ago in the same series of publications: National Geographic Birds of Western North America, which is fine in the west until we want to look up a bird that might have extended its range from the west to an area not in this publication. We talked about replacing the missing resource, and I considered gifting Duffy with one for his birthday. In Santee Lakes , I looked in the console of the Honda, or dreamed I had, under the sliding cover on which we place our GPS, 'Miss Direction.' You guessed it – I found the missing bird book! Life seems to be a series of losings and findings. It is a good thing retirement does not run by the calendar any more than it does. We spend too much time chasing our lost items that are “right where we put them.”

This narrative brings me to today, April 19. This morning, up bright and early, showered and on the road by 9:00am, we made it about two blocks to Starbucks. Our intention was to stop there for a quick coffee and a Wi-Fi connection to arrange tonight's campground. Our destination was east of San Francisco near Walnut Creek, where tomorrow we plan to visit my second cousin, Les, on my mother's side and his wife, Bonnie, in the morning, then in the afternoon spend a little time with friends Winona and Bill Bayes. Our goal for today is to camp nearby so we can accomplish these visits and drive the three-plus hours to Paradise to stay a couple of days with Duffy's sister, Deb.

As we have done on a number of days, we ate just a little bite with our coffee while driving, then stopped later for brunch along the way, eliminating the need for either lunch or a big dinner in the evening. As it happened, we stopped at a Denny's in – Pismo Beach. Our good friends, Bruce and Margie, have been much on our minds this trip. It was here in Pismo Beach that they were run down by a distraught, unthinking young driver as they were taking their morning walk on a late October day in 2010. Thankfully, they died instantly. But, they are never far from our thoughts. It was eerie to realize we had stopped in Pismo Beach unintentionally as we searched out a breakfast spot that would have gluten-free options. [Stephanie and Darin, Dennis, and MacKensie and Zoe if you are reading this know that we loved your mom and dad, in-laws, and grandparents. I paid tribute to them as we passed by.]

The closer we came to the SF Bay Area, it became more and more clear that we were not going to find a camping spot. First, the research at Starbucks in the morning netted us nothing, zippo, as Duffy would say. Our GPS couldn't find any close campgrounds, either. The KOA camp guide we picked up in Louisiana listed nothing close by, and Good Sam Club's website only lists campgrounds by name, not location, so that you need to know the name of the campground before conducting a search. Not at all practical! About 7:00pm this evening, I decided to call our grandson, Jamin. He has an iPhone and was able to search for us. Jamin did a great job, but none of the parks he found had space for us; we think they were full-time mobile home parks, not RV parks. So, back to the original plan – climb to the top of Mt. Diablo at 3,000 feet.

This is one reason why we love our Casita. First, only trailers no longer than 20-feet are allowed in Mt. Diablo campgrounds. Second, we found out why there are size limitations – the road twists and turns up the side of the hill, with no shoulder or barricade to give a false sense of security on the cliff side. We climbed, and climbed, and climbed. We wound around, and around, and around. We drove up, and up, and up on narrow winding roads. Finally, when we thought we would start going down the other side of the mountain without finding the campground we were looking for, we approached the gate at the 2,500 foot altitude and a ranger standing beside his truck waiting for us. If he had not seen us climbing the winding mountain road from his vantage point (our lights were on and the sky was darkening), he would have sped down the mountain and locked the gate. As it was, he took our camp fee, said adios, and sped down the mountain while we drove on into the campground. We're here for the night – the gates do not open until 8:00am tomorrow morning. Best of all? We arrived at the top to a stunning view of the valley below. As the sun was setting in the west leaving a burnt orange blush in the sky, the lights of the San Francisco bedroom communities decorated the valley below. Snapping a few pictures in the near dark, we set up camp and called it a night.

Until next time...

Pam

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Happy Easter Everyone!

Easter Sunday, April 8, 2012

A glorious Happy Easter to everyone.  Here in Santee, California, on a morning that promised a day of sunshine and warmth, we attended the Sunrise, or Sonrise, Service in the campground where we are staying.  There may have been forty or fifty people in attendance.  The sun appeared from behind the hill behind us just as we were closing the service with the final hymn "He Arose!"  Beautiful morning at Santee Lakes!

After trying to make a FaceTime connection (video/audio call on iPad) with Kurt, Heather, Jamin, Maya and Ahna without success, we shopped for the melon we would take to my brother's house for the Easter meal, then returned to the trailer to rest and nap.  The alarm went off this morning entirely too early - at 5:15am - too early for me anyway.  The sunrise service began at 6:30am and, believe it or not, we made it on time.  Chalk one up for us!

Our day at Skip and Susan's was very nice.  Susan's sister, brother-in-law and niece were there, as were the newlyweds, our nephew Mark and Jenn, and later Mark's sister Nikki and her husband Tom and their children, Landon and Reagan stopped by for a while.  At home, we often spend Easter afternoons alone, getting together perhaps with Kurt and his family after they return from sharing the Easter meal with Heather's family who live in the Olympia area.  While we would never begrudge Kurt and family time with Heather's kin, it was nice to be part of a family celebration of Easter.  And, finally, after many failed attempts, we connected with Kurt, Heather and the grandkids on FaceTime.  A near perfect Easter Sunday.  What would have made it perfect?  Talking with Brett in Alaska - he had to work today.

Yesterday, Saturday, we drove the 400+/- miles from Tucson and made pretty good time.  We made very few stops along the way, and those were mostly quick rest stops, for gas in Yuma, Arizona before driving into California where fuel prices are well above $4 per gallon, and for Date Shakes at Dateland, Arizona.  Yum, yum, yum - date shakes!  We look forward to them whenever we are down this way.

In California, we stopped at a rest area just west of El Centro along I-8, where we saw a Vermillion Flycatcher.  We have seen them before on this trip and in other years, but they never cease to amaze us.  A small bird, the Vermillion is bright, bright red with black back, wings and tail.  It is a show-stopper.  The location in California is an unusual place to see one, just on the fringe of its breeding range.

On Friday April 6th before leaving Tucson, we spent the day giving the trailer a thorough inside cleaning.  I vacuumed walls, cushions, vents and blinds; cleaned the Fiberglas surfaces; and hand cleaned the floor.  Duffy washed windows inside and outside of the trailer and inside the Honda.  Then, we went directly to a laundromat with all our soiled clothing and bedding where I fed the washers and dryers until they could take no more, and Duffy took off to find a car wash.  Everything except the inside of the Honda was clean as a whistle when we were through.  Duffy spent extra time washing the car, giving it two washes and two rinses.  Spic and span indeed!  Except...in the time it took to drive the short distance from the car wash to the laundromat, spring pollen coated the newly washed Honda with a sticky, thin layer of fine dust.  Except...in the morning we would be hitting the road, picking up dirt and grime that would need to be washed off by the time we reached Santee.  C'est la vie!  Oh well.  It looked nice for a while.

Thought on haircuts on the road: I really wanted to hold out until returning home to get my hair cut by my long time hairdresser, Christine.  But, by Tucson I was beyond tolerating it the way it was.  Every morning upon waking my hair stood on end, looking like something frightened me in my sleep, or like I'd wrestled with the pillow all night long.  No matter what I did, short of washing it, I could not make it behave.  Well, I nixed the idea of going to Walmart for a haircut.  Not knowing where to turn next, I searched online.  Finally reaching one salon by phone (that had far too fancy a name suggesting $$$$), I settled for an expensive haircut.  How expensive?  More than twice the cost of one at home!  What did I get?  Well, not exactly what I wanted or expected.  I guess what I can say is short hair, really short hair, is easy to care for on the road.  The stylist ignored specific requests I made on length, and only heard "short" and "it's okay if my ears show."  I now have the new Pixie look.  She shaved, she clipped, she texturized with shears, and she coated my hair with a water wax to make it spiky and messy looking when she mussed it with her hands.  Now, Cindy and Peggy, you both look great in spiked hair.  I would not say the same for me.  The good news:  it will grow out, and as the stylist said, "you will be ready for a haircut when you get home."  Thank heaven!!  It sure does not take much fussing, and even if it does stand up in the morning, it's a whole lot shorter than it was before.  Some consolation.

Until next time...
Pam


Thursday, April 5, 2012

Back On Familiar Ground

April 4, 2012

Huachuca RV Park north of Sierra Vista in SE Arizona became our base for exploring birding areas around the area.  Last year when in the state, we drove onto Fort Huachuca Army base to search for birds, and found a rafter of turkeys in breeding display and behavior. 

This year we did not go onto the base, instead we drove south of the Fort to check out two of four canyons on the SE Arizona Birding Trail.  The first, Miller Canyon, suffered fire and flood in 2011.  Situated at the end of the road up the canyon is Beatty's Guest Ranch, a popular birder's haunt.  Two hummingbird feeders at the entry gate attracted six different hummingbirds while we watched, only some of the variety normally seen.  The drought of the past few years, the fire which burned to the fringes of the ranch house destroying the massive apple orchard, pond, and vegetable gardens, followed by .75 inches of rain in ten minutes where the parched ground could not absorb it fast enough resulting in a flood that washed away the soil and road up the canyon.  We could only imagine what the ranch looked like before all the devastation.  Many of the birds that had been here in the past have not returned in great numbers.  Hummingbird numbers are dwindling in the canyon due to habitat loss and climate change.  We felt fortunate to see the six hummingbirds we saw, one of them new to us:  Magnificent Hummingbird, the new one, Broad-Billed, Broad-Tailed, Black-Chinned, Anna's, and Rufous hummers - a good day.  The only other bird we identified there was a Black Phoebe.  The Guinea Hens kept on the property to eat various pests didn't count; they were not wild, but kept by the Beattys.'

San Pedro House, and old ranch house now a birders haven operated by volunteers and located on the San Pedro River, was another day's exploration.  Here we saw many birds we have seen before, but for the first time this year.  We walked a short path along the river in the grove of Fremont Oak and Goodding Willow trees.  Here we saw a Yellow Warbler and a Gray Hawk, only two of the many birds we saw.

There are Life Lists, and there are Yearly Lists.  Duffy keeps our Life List by date and location on Cornell University's eBird site, where birders can track birds by date and location that they've seen, which in turn helps ornithologists (bird scientists) recognize changes and trends, to determine reductions in species that lead to statuses of 'threatened' or 'endangered.'  Conservation and environmental concerns can be raised as a result.  The Yearly List is only as serious as a bird watcher chooses to make it.  Unlike the fanatics in last year's movie 'The Big Year,' Duffy and I save our bird counting for trips like this one, and occasional trips close to home.

Our third excursion in the Sierra Vista vicinity was to Ramsey canyon.  Down the road from Miller Canyon, and separated from it by one other canyon that is currently closed due to the fire and flood of the previous year, Ramsey Canyon escaped the fire and flood.  After driving up Miller Canyon on a road washed out and now negotiated with care, the trip up Ramsey Canyon suggested what Miller Canyon might have looked like prior to last year's natural disasters.  It was beautiful and lush in a gray-green deserty way.  At the end of the road lies a lovely complex built and run by the Nature Conservancy.  Farther up the canyon behind the entrance, the Conservancy maintains trails for hiking, benches here and there for resting and bird watching, and beds of well-marked native plants.   It was here that we saw a White-Breasted Nuthatch.

After three nights in Huachuca City at the RV park, we left for Tucson via Sonoita and Paton's Feeders.  Paton's is a 'famous' homestead, where, while the owners lived, was a birder's paradise.  The Patons welcomed birders to the backyard where eight to ten hummingbird feeders hung from the house eaves, and other feeders with seed and fruit attracted a plethora of birds from sparrows to woodpeckers to doves to titmice to warblers to cardinals to buntings to towhees to quail, and more.  What a place!  Larry (_), the self-proclaimed "Ambassador to the Birds," keeps the feeders filled, welcomes visitors, and assists in identification.  There is a canopy set up in the yard, with rows of folding chairs beneath for the audience to watch the bird activity.

Once in Tucson at our favorite campground, Catalina State Park, northeast of Tucson on the road to the towns of Catalina and Oracle, we set up camp and at long last Duffy dug his bicycle out of the Honda, where it had been trapped and wrapped since picking up the Casita a month ago.  Finally, Duffy climbed aboard his bike both yesterday and today and toured the loops in the park.

Catalina State Park is enormous.  The campground takes up only the tiny southwest corner of the park.  The rest is wilderness of oak and other drought tolerant shrubs and plants and cacti.  It is by far the nicest, cleanest facility we have seen in a state park.  That includes the bathrooms.  Volunteers keep the facilities immaculate as though they were their own.  There are trails to walk from the campground and often bird walks are held in the park, although there are none scheduled this year during Holy Week.  An equestrian facility rents horses or serves as a staging area for horseback rides through the park for those bringing their own animals.  For the first time, Catalina State Park is taking reservations online.  For the first time, we nearly were unable to get a camping spot.  The online reservations and the fact that we came to Tucson on the way home rather than at the start of our trip, explain why there was nearly no room for us.  This year we did not know just when we would arrive, so we could not plan ahead.

Day one in Tucson became a rest day for us, and a haircut and nails day for me.  Duffy went for a bike ride, I went for a haircut.  Then I had a manicure and pedicure.  We had dinner at Sweet Tomatoes, a buffet restaurant that serves fresh, fresh salads and gluten-free chili.  We would have gone to a movie if 1) it were not so late, 2) we had the energy, and 3) there was any movie showing we wanted to see.  Instead, we went back to camp and fell into bed.

Today, Wednesday April 4, Duffy took a bike ride and I slept in.  Nothing new about that...my sleeping in.  Our campsite was not available for the entire time of our stay in Tucson.  We were able to have one campsite for four days and another for two days.  Having to change sites mid-stay causes problems for any plans we may have made looking around and chasing birds.  Luckily, the second campsite was available this morning, so we did not have to wait until tomorrow when we hoped to be elsewhere.  Quickly, we took down camp, moved the trailer, and set up camp again in a new site.  Packing a lunch, we set off for Madera Canyon, south of Green Valley.  In this canyon, there are lodges and guest houses as in the others we visited, most with hummingbird feeders and seed and fruit set out for other birds.  We stopped at most of these, looking for hummingbirds new to us.  We saw the same hummers we saw elsewhere, still exciting for us, and rejoiced in also seeing a Painted Redstart, Heptic Tanager, and Black-Eyed Junco.  But no Elegant Trogon.  On our last trip here in a previous year, I had seen an Elegant Trogon, but Duffy had just missed it.  Alas, no Elegant Trogon for us this year.  In fact, very few birds were flying at all.  But, at Santa Rita Lodge, the Tom Turkey was strutting his stuff in all his feathery glory, while the hens, resting on the ground or searching for seed spilled from the feeders above, mainly ignored him.

For days now we have tried to connect with the Hugheses, a young family from our church visiting Janis' mother in Green Valley.  We thought today would be the day.  But after spending four-and-a-half hours in the canyon and a long hike up the hillside and back down, we had just enough energy to stop at the market for salad veggies and fruit, go home to fix a salad and hit the hay.  Well, not all of us hit the hay...here I am typing this blog into the wee hours.  Time to stop.

Until next time...
Pam

















Monday, April 2, 2012

Time Flies When We Are Watching For Birds!

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Eleven days have passed since I last typed a post in this blog.  I knew it had been a while, but did not realize it had been so long!

Once again we have run into some problems with Wi-Fi connections.  On March 25th, I finally worked out how to reactivate the portable Broadband-2-Go we purchased several years ago, so that we have another option from our trailer, when service for it is available wherever we happen to be.

Since my last post, we have put some miles on the Honda and Casita, traveling from Galveston to Sargent, Texas and the Caney Creek RV Park - a happy find - to Port Aransas, Texas on Mustang Island, where Kurt and Tom Rieger will be sculpting sand later in April at the Texas Sand Fest.  From Port Aransas, we drove to San Antonio for two nights, then stayed in Balmorhea, Texas near Fort Stockton; Deming, New Mexico; and Sierra Vista, Arizona where we are now.  Tomorrow, we will move to Tucson for several days to a week. 

On the way to Caney Creek RV Park, we explored the drive-through San Bernard National Wildlife Refuge, where we saw our first ever Scissor-Tailed Flycatcher.  Amazing!!  We spent two nights along Caney Creek in Sargent, a tiny fishing town on the Gulf Coast.  The creek, more like a slow river, flows to the gulf through a network of canals lined by houses on both sides.  It looked very European to my untraveled imagination.  We parked under a wonderful shade tree at the park, slapped off the most annoying no-see-ums and midges, and did laundry and bookwork.  Every so often we need to take such an "administrative" day.  Duffy was doing his work for Kurt while I laundered away, cleaned the trailer a bit, and other such things that needed doing.  We did see a few birds in the campground and along the gulf shore. 

April is apt to be more of a "migrant" month than March has been, when we might find birds that are moving from winter grounds to summer climes.  But alas, here we are now, not in April.  Nonetheless, we did see some impressive sights, including the bird Port Aransas and Aransas National Wildlife Refuge are famous for:  the Whooping Crane.  There are only about 600 of these cranes left in the wild, and they spend winters at Aransas NWR, where they are protected.  We stayed at the I.B. McGee Park run by Nueces County, right off the Port Aransas Beach.  From here we could explore several different areas noted for birding:  LeonaBelle Turnbull Wildlife Reserve, The Sanctuary at Charlie's Pasture, the shore for wading birds, and other areas on Mustang Island.

On the morning we left Port Aransas for Corpus Christi, we took time to wash the grime and road dirt off our new trailer and Honda.  A futile effort.  It takes no time at all to collect oil, grease, dirt and tar from the road.  Now we look like new with a sparkling spit shine.  The road to Corpus Christi crosses the inter-coastal waterway by bridge.  Bound for San Antonio, we spent no time in this bird paradise, but said "goodbye" to the gulf coast leaving the road to Brownsville, Texas for another year's adventures in birding. 

We set up camp swiftly at the San Antonio KOA and planned our tourist attack on the city's famed areas.  The next morning, we gamely left the Honda at the campground in favor of a city bus ride into town.  Dropped off at the Alamo, we made that historic park and battlefield our first destination.  Both Duffy and I were impressed with the "development" of the Alamo into a park and museum.  A portion of the old brick walls have been converted into a shrine and is an active restoration project.  A conservator meticulously cleaning and restoring the walls by way of scaffolding discovered "new" inscriptions and evidence of colored designs (frescoes of a sort much like wainscot-level stenciling) not before detected on some of the interior walls and others, giving dates of establishment of the mission and of the battle at the Alamo.  The grounds are a well-preserved and maintained garden of enormous, historic oak trees, and cacti reaching well above our heads in some cases - like the 10-14 foot high blooming Yucca that must be very old.

Next, we strolled the Riverwalk amidst an array of umbrellas of bright primary colors sheltering outdoor diners, passed rows of potted Bougainvillaea, Petunias, Impatiens, Bird of Paradise, and Hibiscus, and listened to the music of water flowing from fountains.  Truly beautiful.  The place was teeming with people - tourists, joggers, business-men and -women enjoying lunch by the river.  Tourists floated by in flat boats operated by a guide giving history lessons to boaters and bystanders alike.

While we enjoyed the Riverwalk, our feet and backs complained.  A Mexican Restaurant, the Guadalajara Grill (shades of our trip there in 2010), was just the place to rest our bodies, fill our stomachs and quench our thirsts.  We bought tickets for the downtown on/off trollies labeled red, blue or yellow route, each circling the business center in a different direction, providing alternate views of San Antonio.  We road until we were tired of riding, walking and sightseeing, found the city bus that would return us to the KOA and boarded it on the same ticket used for the trollies, a pretty good deal.  Tomorrow, a new day and a new destination.

From San Antonio, we began to push harder for Tucson, adding additional miles to our drives each day.  From Central Texas we drove to Balmorhea in West Texas, where we camped at Balmorhea State Park, boasting the largest swimming pool in the country, if not the world, spring fed by San Solomon Spring.  I wish I could have taken a picture, but the pool, closed for cleaning, had been drained; the grounds closed for safety.  Good photos of it exist on the park's website.  Holding somewhere around 26 million gallons of water, it must be quite a site to see in operation.  The water that flows through is diverted to the Cinegas (slow moving water in Spanish) in the park that are home to waterfowl and other birds, endangered and protected guppies and pupfish as well as catfish, sunfish and others, and a variety of mammals.  The water that flows out of the Cinegas flows into Balmorhea Lake or is used for agriculture in the area.

The next day we drove through Van Horn, Texas where we stayed on our way to pick up our Casita.  This time we had a late breakfast, more like brunch, and filled the gas tank, pushing on through El Paso and Las Cruces, NM to Deming where we stayed at the Little Vineyard RV Park.  We stayed at this same campground last year on our way to Oklahoma and met a couple from New England with a new Casita.  A visit inside their Casita helped convince us to buy ourselves the new one we are using today. 

It was here in Deming that we learned by way of CaringBridge.com that our good and true friend Don lost his battle with leukemia after a valiant fight of more than a year.  Words fail to describe our sense of loss and caring for Peggy as she faces life alone in the days to come.  Our drive was quiet and thoughtful, each of us, Duffy and me, letting the news settle in.  Still, we drove on to Sierra Vista via Tombstone, Arizona, which is where this writing finds us at the Mountain View RV Park in Huachuca City, AZ just to the north.

Until Next Time...
Pam


















Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Moving On - More Thunder and Lightening, More Birds


Tuesday, March 20, 2012

From the sound of the wind all night long at the Bolivar Peninsula RV Park, it seemed like a good day to move on. On the other hand, weather like this brings to shore pelagic (ocean-going) birds that normally stay out at sea and other birds not normally in the area. So, we did both – moved on and did some bird watching.

The rain began early, the thunder and lightening started as we drove southwest toward Port Bolivar to catch the ferry to Galveston Island. We wondered at the wisdom of crossing the five miles of water leading from the Gulf of Mexico to East Bay north of Bolivar Peninsula, West Bay north of Galveston Island, becoming thereafter Trinity Bay, then Galveston Bay. What we did know is that the ferry workers had lots of experience with weather along the north gulf coast in Texas, and they would decide whether or not it was safe to cross. It appeared that we arrived at the ferry terminal just as a ferry was unloading cars coming from Galveston, indicating that we would be leaving shortly. That might have happened if the vehicle two cars in front of us didn't have a dead battery and wasn't going anywhere soon. In the driving rain, with lightening and thunder all around, we waited for the ferry to unload. Then we waited for the other lane of traffic to load onto the ferry. When it was our turn, it became apparent our lane was not moving. That's when we learned of the dead battery in the car ahead of us in line.

At this point I feel duty bound to recognize the ferry worker who weathered the storm getting drenched while moving back and forth along the line of waiting cars, all with dry passengers, to sort out the mess and get the ferry loaded. He should have been paid double for working in those conditions.

All of the cars in our lane behind the stalled car had to back up along the concrete curbing in order to change lanes and proceed to the ferry. This means the last in line became the first to board. Which also meant we missed the boat. The good news, Laughing Gulls and Brown Pelicans were all over the place. The gulls along the edge of the dock looked like so many tourists waiting to dodge the next wave that broke over the wall.

We did make it across on the next ferry second in line to get off on the other side. Galveston looks nothing like Crystal Beach on the Bolivar Peninsula. This is a big city, a resort town. The difference in appearance between Galveston and Bolivar is money, I am quite sure. If Hurricane Ike hit both island and peninsula equally three-and-one-half years ago, then Galveston wasted no time in rebuilding. This is a vibrant, busy, commercial city. Crystal Beach, on the other hand, appears to be someplace spring break happens and weekend bungalows are kept. Galveston is a city where people live and work. Tourism appears to be Galveston's number one industry, with fishing a close second behind oil, which built the island. Crystal Beach and Bolivar Peninsular appear not to have recovered very quickly from Hurricane Ike, and tourism most likely takes a second seat next to fishing for shrimp and crab.

We drove the length of the island to the Galveston Island State Park where we will camp for two nights. After setting up our trailer, we explored the park for birds. The park spans the width of the island at the west end, not a very long span since the island is long and narrow. We had a choice of surf side or bay side for camping. Not a hard choice for us. Which side is best for birding? The bay side. That's where we landed.

As we drove to the various birding areas in the park, we saw five new birds for our life list, four of them we had been hoping to see: Neo-Tropic Cormorant, Black-Bellied Whistling Duck, Reddish Egret, and Redheaded Ducks (f), all water birds of one kind or another. The fourth was a Savannah Sparrow, a little bitty passerine, or perching bird. While we did not have the kind of Big Day we had on Sunday, we were still mighty pleased with the eighteen species of birds we did see, which included Forster's Tern, Roseate Spoonbill (look this one up online to see what a wonder this bird is), Tri-colored Heron, Pied-Billed Grebe (a first for this year), three Loggerhead Shrikes (firsts for this year), and another White-Tailed Kite.

After a nap which ran way too late in the evening, we awoke to cook up the fresh shrimp we bought in town with a little garlic and ate it served over brown rice with tomato and avocado on the side. Mmm-mmm good. Now we need to stay awake until way, way too late to digest before sleeping. That's when typing a blog is a good way to spend the time.

Until next time...
Pam

Monday, March 19, 2012

Our Big Day!!!

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Up early (for me) this fine Sunday morning, caught a quick breakfast of yogurt and granola, then headed for coffee at the local one-stop Gulf Coast Market here in Crystal Beach where we are spending three nights in the Bolivar Peninsula RV Park.  When Duffy headed to the RV park office to pay for our stay while he waited for me to get ready, he put on his sunglasses saying he was going incognito so the mosquitoes wouldn't recognize him.  I don't think the sunglasses helped, but the wind did.  On our agenda today:  Bolivar Peninsula viewing spots, High Island, the Anahuac National Wildlife Refuge and the adjacent Skillern track. 

On the way to Anahuac, which involved driving north of the Bolivar Peninsula, then a long way west as though we were going to the town of Anahuac, we stopped at a couple of small, marked birding spots.  We thought we were in an abandoned refuge, but learned that these, too, had been hit by Hurricane Ike and not fully restored.  Not-for-profit groups maintain these, and as group members and funds are available, they are gradually restored.

At Anahuac NWR we found a tiny little building marked "Visitor Center."  Just a bit ahead was a much larger facility that was being built out of blocks.  Another victim of Ike.  The volunteer told us that this area had been hit by a twenty foot wall of water, destroying everything in its path.  The small building is temporary as the Visitor's Center is being rebuilt - the block building under construction.

Anahuac NWR has two roads to follow, one that goes virtually straight from the entrance and one that veers off to the right.  We took the straight path.  This is a drive-through site over a dirt

track that leads through bayous, ponds, and marshes.  Including the usual birds to be added to this year's list (we start anew every year), we saw Boat-Tailed Grackles*, Great-Tailed Grackles, Black* and Turkey Vultures, Northern Mockingbird (Texas State Bird), Red-Wing Black Birds, Barn Swallows, Northern Shovelers (ducks), Blue-Winged Teal (ducks), Willets* (long-legged shorebirds), Wilson's Snipe* (wader), Snowy Egrets (waders), Great Egrets (waders), Great Blue Herons (waders), Killdeer (long-legged shorebird, also found inland), Double-Crested Cormorants (sea or fresh water birds), Gadwalls (ducks), Northern Harriers (hawks), Laughing Gull*, Long-billed Curlew* (long-legged wader), Lesser- and Greater*-Yellowlegs (long-legged waders), Roseate Spoonbills* (long-legged, large waders), Belted Kingfisher, White Ibis*, Glossy Ibis* (both long-legged waders), Fulvous Whistling Duck*, and Tri-Colored Heron* in breeding colors.  Oh, and did I mention an alligator resting in the grasses of the roadside channel, opposite the road, with one healthy, big, glossy eye open?

That's 28 birds in one day!  Eight more than our goal for the day! - purely a made-up number.  Twelve of these birds (marked with an "*") are new on our life list!!!  Whoo-hoo!  My were we whipped at the end of the day.  It took all the energy we could muster to fix dinner and go to bed.  Some of these new birds we've seen earlier in our trip, but they were new for us then.

I must have been so dazed with bird sightings that I left my bum bag (for my British friends, "fanny pack" in the U.S.) in the ladies' restroom, forgetting all about it until we were partway to the Skillern Track.  I called the credit union to cancel my credit and debit cards, but had a bad connection and limited service.  I lost the call midway through.  The Visitor's Center was closed when we returned, so there was no one to ask.  What a crummy end to a terrific day.

 Life, however, is filled with little miracles and many blessings.  Duffy knew where the NWR volunteer encampment was along the main road, so when we stopped in there and I walked up to a man working on equipment outside, he said "Let me see.  Pat Rader?  Fanny Pack?"  Oh, I am sure I was jumping up and down by then, never mind the wrong name.  The woman who had been working at the Anahuac Visitor's Center that day had taken it home with her.  She invited me in to her RV where she and her husband were enjoying their dinner.  I gave her a big hug.  I wish I could give a bear hug to the honest woman who found my fanny pack in the women's restroom and delivered it to the Visitor's Center across the road.  I am gratified at how many honest and friendly people are in the world.  What a marvelous, relieving end to a very terrific day!

(I had hoped to insert web photos of some of the birds here, but have yet to learn how.)


Monday, March 19, 2012


Today, I slept in.  I will not confess how long.  All I can say is it was nice.  Very nice.  When we finally got going, we made our way to the Gulf Coast Market to pick up a few things for dinner.  Instead of coming right back, we drove west along the peninsula to another birding spot along the beach to see what the storm was bringing in.  As we drove along the beach, we saw a gull we could not identify (may have been a Ring-Billed Gull) and lots of little Sanderlings or Sandpipers?  Or plovers or...?  The light was fading and we could not make out the details well enough to know any more than that there were at least three different kinds of shore birds there.  We are pretty sure, though, that we saw a Black-Bellied Plover, as distinctive as they are. 

Tomorrow, we're off to Galveston and points west.  Thunder storms are predicted.  Should be an exciting day.  The last thunder and lightening storm we were in set all of our electronic devices in motion like the Wonderland clock - having hissy-fits.

Until next time...,
Pam








The Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail - North Texas Route

March 17, 2012

Friday, March 16th we spent preparing to travel and traveling west.  The steep bridge over Lake Charles in southern Louisiana near the Texas border was as slow going this time as it was when we headed east.  Road work had the bridge closed to one lane in each direction, with the other two lanes east and west shut down.  Traffic was backed up for miles.  Luckily, we were listening to a book on CD, enjoying getting caught up on the story.  It kept us from getting overly irritated at drivers bullying their way in to the single file line of traffic.

On the way, and once we crossed the Sabine river which marks the border between Texas and Louisiana, the welcome center at the Texas border on I-10 was  a wonderful find.  Racks and racks of brochures on sites throughout Texas were available at no charge.  We were just as surprised to have access to the Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail brochures that we'd found on a website and had wanted to purchase, here also free of charge for the asking.

Once we had crossed the Louisiana border, Duffy arranged for us to stay at Claiborne West Park at the beginning of the Sabine Loop, known to birders.   The park has two, count them - TWO, grassy spaces without hookups for RVs to park for up to three nights at $3 per night.  Other spots were available for tent campers, but either no tent campers were there in March, or they were somewhere else in the park.  I'm not sure I would feel comfortable tenting from what I've learned about snakes and alligators in these parts.  In a beautiful, spacious setting, this is an ideal family destination for locals on a weekend, those who live comfortably with the wildlife. 

We walked down to the bayou where we watched an osprey and a great egret both watching for their dinner.  We strolled around the path on the berm above the pond looking for birds, then after finding a pair of cardinals, we headed back to our rig.  We were told alligators inhabit the pond, but we saw none, and we stayed back.  The most populous residents were hungry mosquitoes.  The park closed to the public at 6:00pm, so we had it pretty much to ourselves for the night.  A few people had parked outside the park entrance and walked in.  We talked to a couple, who belong to Texas Audubon and Golden Triangle Audubon, who were most helpful in providing information for our quest, including a recommendation to visit Sabine Woods, already on Duffy's list.

Preferring to stay closer to where we would be birding, along the Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail, on Saturday we pulled up stakes (hadn't even unhitched) and headed south through Port Arthur and High Island.  Our hunt for birds on Saturday took us to Sea Rim State Park on the gulf coast, Sabine Woods run by the Texas Ornithological Society, and Texas Point Wildlife Refuge.  These last two were wooded and included ponds and bayous, which meant there were mosquitoes by the thousands. 

Some of the birding areas we explored were small and appeared to have been vandalized.  Indeed they were - by Hurricane Ike in September 2008.  I recall this hurricane as it reached to Houston where so many Katrina refugees were still stranded, and devastated the coastline from Louisiana to Corpus Christi, TX.  The Bolivar Peninsula where we ended up spending the night at an RV park, has been rebuilt since the 2008 hurricane, which was one of the costliest in U.S. history next to Katrina. 

The homes that have been built or rebuilt along the beach front and even inland are two- and three-stories high, with pilings beneath the second story, and many times an outdoor patio on the second story.  Any storage areas at ground level are built with break-away walls to allow a surge in ocean waters to burst through.  In 2008, we have been told, the wall of water reached 13 to 20 feet high, depending upon who we spoke with and where they were at the time and how far inland they lived.  Even the elementary and middle school, in one building together, are built along the beach on stilts above ground.  Everything here looks tentative, not permanent.  I imagine that's become the way of life since this coastline was wiped out, utterly destroyed.

Until next time. . .,
Pam














Lafayette Layover


Saturday, March 17  (posted March 19)

Several days have passed since I last posted a blog. We had a great Internet connection in Lafayette, Louisiana. Sightseeing, however, took precedence, giving me more material to include in my blog. (I quickly I forget that the blog records the travel, travel is not meant to support the blog. :-) )

On Wednesday, March 14th, Duffy and I drove south through Lafayette to the site of Vermilionville, a recreated Cajun-Creole village. The historic replica had actually been moved from its original location, and was the predecessor to Lafayette. Named after the Vermilion River that runs through Lafayette, the name was later changed to honor the French general.

Down the road from Vermilionville stands the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve – Acadian Cultural Center (one of the six national historic sites scattered throughout Louisiana including the one we visited in the French Quarter of New Orleans). We were encouraged by a volunteer at Vermilionville to visit the National Park Service site before going into the village, to see the 35-minute film and walk through the museum. So we did. The film was very educational for me in providing an understanding of the origins of Cajun and Creole peoples and cultures.

Deciding to come back on Thursday to wander through the village to view the history at leisure, we traveled on south to Avery Island, the site of the Tabasco plant, makers of the sauce that is a staple in kitchens across American and on restaurant dining tables everywhere.

To get onto Avery Island, which instead of an island in the water is actually a land-locked salt dome, we crossed a small bridge spanning a narrow river. At the gatehouse we purchased our entry ticket. The ticket taker in the small booth, a good number of feet away from our car on the passenger side, said, “Don't get out” and reached across the space with a long stick in his hand to which was attached a clothespin. I secured a $20 bill to the clothespin, which he then drew in, returning it with a day pass and my change. Not high technology, but it worked.

The salt dome that made up the island had been pushed above ground many centuries before by pressures below, and later became the site of the first salt mine in North America, according to the literature. Tabasco uses this natural salt to season its various sauces. Salt is also packed on top of the closed, recycled whiskey barrels to prevent insects and critters from getting into the curing peppers by way of small holes left for escaping gases.

Did you know that the peppers used to make Tabasco sauces are grown in South and Central America from seeds harvested on Avery Island? Did you also know that the peppers, a small capsicum variety, are mixed with a small amount of salt mined from the island and fermented in the re-purposed oak whiskey barrels for three years before being bottled?

A fascinating place 'Tabasco' on Avery Island is. Beautiful, lushly green and blooming with all sorts of spring blossoms. On the 'island', along with the Tabasco “factory,” is Jungle Gardens, a drive-through garden first established by one of the “Tabasco” family to reintroduce and protect the Snowy Egret, a large, beautiful, white wading bird which had become endangered in the early twentieth century. To this day, Avery Island is managed under strict ecological, environmental, and conservation standards. If I didn't have an aversion to really hot sauce, I might season my food all the time with Tabasco just to support their principles.

We did return the following day (Thursday) to walk through the village, taking in the history both written and living in the form of volunteer spinners, blacksmiths, woodworkers, and others not there when we were. The best find of the day was a small alligator floating on a bayou adjacent to the grounds. Good eyes, Duffy. Merely eyes and a few spines showing above water.

On Friday morning, March 16, after four consecutive nights at the Lafayette KOA (actually in Scott, LA), with the fourth night free, – worth mentioning because we are trying to get by on $100 per day and the trip up to now has averaged more than that – I got up early to do laundry at the park facilities, while Duffy finished some computer work. Then we packed up and headed back to Texas, breaking camp just after noon.

One of my disappointments in visiting Louisiana has been the food. I looked forward to trying Cajun and Creole local specialties and the crawfish that are now in season. But, for some reason MSG is included in all the sauces and seasonings used to prepare the local the ethnic dishes, transforming gluten-free foods into ones I cannot or dare not eat. Red-beans-and-rice became my Cajun/Creole staple. I was not so disappointed for myself, but for Duffy who likes to try new foods, and loves Creole dishes. He would not eat at a restaurant if I could not find something to eat it, too. We did eat out on occasion, and either I had Red Beans and Rice or salad with vinegar and oil, while Duffy sampled the house specialties. I love him for his devotion and concern, but still wished for him to taste more of Louisiana cuisine.

It is worth noting for those of you who have not been to Louisiana and plan to go at some point, that this state has some of the worst drivers we have ever seen. Tailgating, cutting off cars in traffic at high speed without signaling, weaving in and out, passing when there is no passing lane, all are traits of Louisiana drivers. It's amazing that there are not more collisions than happen already, and we saw plenty. Highway on and off ramps look like after thoughts, barely distinguishable from the frontage or side roads, and about as well marked. This might be due to the flat terrain in this part of the country. We will take a big breath when we arrive again in Texas, where there are other driving patterns and idiosyncrasies to become accustomed to all over again.

Onward – the return west and the great Gulf-bird-hunt begins. Could this be our Big Year? :~)

Until Next Time,
Pam